A month in the Cabo Verde

When we last visited the Cabo Verde Islands [2011] we spent 10 days visiting four islands. This year we have been here for 29 days and been to just three. The main reason for the difference is the weather, both here and across the Atlantic.

Those of you in parts of the UK, on the west coast of Europe, or the eastern US seaboard may have encountered some strong storms in the past few weeks. These have pulled the wind north leaving days of calm on the route between the Cabo Verdes and the Caribbean and created considerable swell all the way across. So, we were “stuck” in Palmeira, Sal for 10 days, rolled on the swell on Boavista and have not, until now, felt able to leave Mindelo, Sao Vicente because we would have either been becalmed for several days at a time, faced large [3m+] waves or, on a really bad day had both at the same time which would have resulted in rolling a lot but going nowhere!

What our extended stay on two of the islands [Sal and Sao Vicente] has meant is that we have got out and about more than we would have with just two or three days at each.

On Sal we twice caught an Aluguer – a kind of cross between a taxi and a bus – to the main town of Espargos….

…..and once down to the south of the island to Santa Maria.

On our first trip….

…. we met Maria [ the lady front right in the photo above] who cooks Senegalese food and who made us a Sunday lunch of chicken, rice and beans – with a few veg thrown in. I suppose it might be considered a West African risotto.

Our other venture into “new” food was when we tried the Cape Verde national dish, Cachupa, of which there seem to be two versions.

It is supposedly corn and bean based with either meat or fish. Unfortunately, for Steve, although we had been told the lunch time soupy one was meat, there was some fish as well and, though he might have been happy with that in a meat broth, it too was made from fish. Mike and I thought it was fantastic and had it again the following Saturday when we returned to Restaurant Esplanade Bom Dia in Espargos.

However, our real reason for going the second time was the lunchtime live music….

….. and the fabulous people and atmosphere.

Music is everywhere on the islands and we were also surprised, one day, to hear music in a market. We aren’t sure what it was about but it was obviously a evocative occasion.

Our day out in Santa Maria was also really successful. Wandering around we all reminisced about our respective previous visits, remarked on how many more hotels had sprung up and that, now, holiday makers were not just shutting themselves away in all- inclusives.

In response to the increased available trade more restaurants and bars have opened. We were really lucky with our choice…

…. but even luckier in the late afternoon when we visited “Bodiguini”…

….a great craft beer outlet just opposite the Aluguer stop…..

….. with a bit of a strange story behind its beer name.

As a tourist town it is much more manicured than Palmeira….

…… which sees only yachties and occasional minibus tours from Santa Maria during which a tour guide shows the dozen or so punters a few murals, the fishing harbour and a couple of small souvenir shops. Though, as far as we were concerned, the anchorage was really good – which, generally, is the most important consideration.

We have enjoyed the various murals which brighten many a building on all the islands….

The mural above wasn’t painted. It was created from a concreted wall which had, in some way, been chipped out to form the image. There were also tiled images…

…. and small statues, which generally celebrate the main Cabo Verde industry.

Fishing seems to be the principle occupation from piers….

… and, obviously from boats….

….of all sizes…..

…. and when not being used, the boats, or their moorings, become the favourite resting place for herons and egrets. Spot the one on the boat above…. and then…

On Sao Vicente we took an island trip which cost €20pp and was in a private minibus which the four of us had to ourselves. While Mike was dropped off and took a walk, the rest of us went to the top of the highest mountain – Monte Verde.

Although it looks very dry in places, this island is actually the greenest of the three we have visited and, as part of the trip we were fortunate enough to be taken to meet a guy who cultivates vegetables.

We went to the north of the island to the village of Salamansa….

…. where kite surfers enjoy the waves….

…. to Baia das Gatas….

….. where we, well Steve and I anyway, enjoyed a swim……

….and to Calhau where we went to the turtle “sanctuary” when the rescuer was cleaning out the tank……

…..and then to Restaurant Hamburg for a lovely lunch.

The town of Mindelo itself clearly demonstrates is semi colonial past – I say “semi” because it wasn’t a colony as such but was seen as an actual part of Portugal.

It gained Independence in 1975 and is one of the most stable African countries. We have found the people to be incredibly friendly and helpful….

…… and a surprising number of local people also speak English. Actually, maybe it’s not so surprising after all as there are more Cabo Verdeans living in the US than there are in Cabo Verde and the ones who live here have to speak to their relatives somehow.

As I said above, we also went to Boavista but our time there was marred by lots of swell. Although we were fine on Owl and Pussycat, getting ashore was a bit hairy as we had to surf onto the beach with the dinghy. Fortunately, we did get ashore for clearance purposes and lunch….

….and one evening were able to go to Ilheu de Sal Rei – the small island opposite the town, where we strolled to the fort before sundowners on the beach.

Interspersed with trips out and about we have been making repairs and doing the usual boat stuff. To replace the lazy jack pulleys which, as reported in my previous post parted company with the mast, I had to go up top! Never one to do things by halves, I actually ended up going aloft four times!

But it’s done now and, we hope, we are all ship shape ready for leaving.

So, tomorrow [8 Dec] is the day. We are checked out, the dinghy is deflated and on deck, lifelines are on, grab bag packed, the fridge is full and we are as ready as we can be.

With a fair wind we might just make Barbados for Christmas Day.