As I told you at the end of the previous post, our next stop after Valparaiso was the Elqui Valley. To get here, after a short bus ride back to Santiago, we took our first overnight bus to La Serena – 480km [288miles] north, and then one of two local “Elqui” buses to the small town of Vicuña. If anyone reading this is taking a bus to any of the small towns/villages in the valley, note that they go from La Serena’s main bus terminal, not from a separate, specific, terminus as stated in the “Lonely Planet”.
Arriving early in the morning of 16th September, we were fortunate that “Hostal Michal” allowed us to check in before the appointed 14.00hrs. The accommodation was great….
…. one of our favourites of the trip. The only downside was that you weren’t allowed to drink alcohol in the rooms. We could understand no parties and no food, but no booze? Anyway, it was a very small thing and with the lovely weather and a garden and views like this….
…. No problem – a glass of wine outside is a fine thing!
Arriving early also meant that we had a whole day ahead so we made full use of it by going back to the bus station to catch the Elqui bus to Pisco Elqui.
This small village used to be called “La Union” but, in 1936 was renamed to publicise the area’s most well-known product and reinforce Chile’s claim to the name. This all links in to the “debate” I mentioned in the last post – i.e. Who first made Pisco – Chile or Peru? As I understand it, during C16, local farmers, in both countries, made “Aguardiente”[fire water] from the lower quality grapes not used in wine production. Historical data suggests that around 1563, the Jesuits in Peru gave away their unused grapes to be used in this way but Chileans say their local wine makers started producing Aguardiente even earlier. That Aguardiente came to be known as Pisco is certainly because of the port in Peru from where the Aguardiente was exported but as to who first made it I wouldn’t like to say. What I will say is that our favourite Pisco to drink straight was the amber Chilean type resulting from being in wooden barrels post distillation [which the Peruvians aren’t, by their own rules of production, allowed to do] but that for Pisco Sours we prefer the clear Pisco made in both countries – and Pisco Sour was definitely invented in Peru.
The village is in the upper drainage area of the Rio Claro [Clear River] – a tributary of the Rio Elqui -and the higher up the valley you go the drier and more barren it gets.
In the centre of Pisco Elqui is the “Mistral” distillery but, the owner of Hostal Michal had recommended that we didn’t go there. He suggested that either “Fundo los Nichos” or “Doña Josefa” were better, by which he meant less touristy. We had the choice of a 1hr walk or a 20-minute walk and given the heat and dryness in the valley, and the fact that the walk was uphill, I think you will understand why we chose the shorter one – and very glad we did too, as this artisanal distillery was fabulous.
On arrival we were given a pisco each and were asked to wait at one of the tables in the tasting room for the next “tour”. Two other people arrived and we had a fun, laughter filled hour being shown around the distillery….
…..given lots of information on production…
…. and then guided through a tasting by Francesca.
As I said above, we are glad we chose this distillery. Much closer to Vicuña is the “Capel” distillery. The name “Centro Turistico Capel” says it all but, as we were passing, we thought we would take a look. At the gate we were told that tours were fully booked for four days. These tours are actually by reservation only, run approximately half hourly with 15 or 30 people in them depending on which “quality” of tour you pick and cost £5 or £10 equivalent for three or six tastings. We were allowed into part of the grounds so that we could visit the [heaving with visitors] shop which we exited asap, by-passed the barrel stalls…..
…. posed at the still…..
…… and left.
Our tour of Doña Josefa was four people, free and included four tastings plus the drink we were given on arrival. Which would you prefer!
We then walked back to and through the village and then a further 4.5km down the valley to the village of Monte Grande.
The village is the former home of the Nobel prizewinning, internationally famous poet, diplomat, educator and humanist Gabriela Mistral who, I have to confess, I had never heard of.
There are schools all over Chile named after her, several of which – especially those for girls – she founded.
Although she spent much of her adult life living in France, Italy and the US, after her death she was buried in Monte Grande.
The following day we walked 5km SE to the western part of the village of Peralillo. Here, with firewood hard to find, a group of women found a groundbreaking way to cook…..
…. using solar power.
We had a fabulous meal – Mike had “Pierna de Cabra” [goat shank] and I had “Costillas de Cerdo” [pork ribs].
Both dishes were succulent and rich and we washed them down with a Gran Reserve Carmenere produced in the valley.
Whilst on the subject of food and drink, we had the best Empanadas in Chile from the bakery in Vicuña…..
….. and forced ourselves to spend an evening at Cerveceria Guayacan where a display tray gave us lots of information about the beers on offer.
The next two days were National Holidays in Chile to celebrate Independence, declared on 18th September 1810. The first holiday celebrates the actual day of Independence, and the second, “the Glories of the Army”. The latter is mainly a military parade in Santiago but on Independence Day itself each city, town and village has some form of festival.
In Vicuña, in the morning there was dancing….
…. and a parade….
…. and then people made their way up the hill to the “Pampilla de San Isidro” [Cultural Centre and Fairground] at the top where good fun was had by all.
There were lots of families and groups in tents who were spending the four-day weekend partying there.
There were entertainers……
….. there were stalls selling everything from clothes to household items to toys, there were beer tents….
…. and “parilla” [grill] restaurants were everywhere because BBQ food is traditional on Independence Day.
We didn’t return to the party on the hill on the second day but instead went into the centre of town, ate ice cream, visited the small but perfectly formed “Museo Entomologico e Historia Natural on the south side of the square…..
…saw the Torre Bauer…..
….. and wandered through the plaza….
…. taking photos of tree sculptures……
… where our lovely four day/three night stay in Vicuña ended. It was a fun and relaxing time and we recommend the area to anyone considering going.
In the late afternoon we caught the Elqui bus back to La Serena and then another overnight bus up to Calama – where my next blog post will begin.
