Internal flights in Chile and Argentina are relatively cheap, which made it an easier decision for us to make with regard to getting from Calama, Chile to Mendoza, Argentina. Going over the Andes by bus wasn’t really an option anyway – too precipitous for Mike and, given the time of year, possibly blocked by snow/ice. So, on Saturday 23rd September we flew first from Calama to Santiago and then Santiago to Mendoza. At Santiago we had to change terminals – from Domestic to International – which meant we had to collect our luggage even though it was the same airline on both legs. Due to a delayed second flight, we had over seven hours to while away so we were really pleased when we found the Chile v England Rugby World Cup match on the TV.
Needless to say, we kept very quiet!
We had organised and paid in advance for a transfer from the airport to the city which is a really good thing to have done because getting money from an ATM in Argentina is a very costly thing. There is a limit on withdrawal amounts and large fees. However, we needed some money for the evening and the following day [Sunday] so had no choice but to withdraw some as we were too late for the money exchange bureaux and had been warned that the people offering “Cambio” on the street would probably rip us off. We got a bit confused with exchange rates, and couldn’t check on the internet because our Chile phone SIM didn’t work in Argentina, so we ended up withdrawing only £50 equivalent. That cost us £5 in withdrawal fees – so maybe getting just £50 wasn’t a bad thing after all as it is a percentage fee, not a fixed one.
Cash in hand we decided to go for a drink – to be told by the bar owner that he couldn’t serve us because local elections were being held the following day so alcohol sales were not allowed between 20.00 Saturday and the same time Sunday. “Ah well” we thought – not that unusual – several countries have this restriction, but, “Hang on a minute” I said as we walked through a pedestrian precinct, “there are people drinking at those tables”. We wondered whether they had perhaps bought their drinks prior to 20.00 but thought we’d enquire and, lo and behold – no problem!!
The following day was equally confusing. The supermarket had all the alcohol section roped off – but this wine shop was open for sales.
What the difference is, with regard to the “no alcohol” rule, between one bar and another or between a supermarket and a wine shop we have no idea – but as we got wine on both occasions we didn’t care!
There isn’t a lot to do on a Sunday in Mendoza but I found one museum which both the Lonely Planet and Google said was open. It was in the “Parque General San Martin” and we thought that a stroll in the park might also be a good thing in itself.
Fortunately, the walk was quite pleasant because the museum was closed.
The opening times on the gate said it should have been open and a local mum turned up with her son at the same time as us, expecting it to be open. Another election thing?
So, we thought we would stop for a coffee – but this was just a juice bar.
Well, we wouldn’t have minded that but, on ordering two orange juice, we were asked if we wanted it with water or with milk. So, two watery oranges it was. Not best.
Thus, all in all – the first 24 hours were a rather bewildering introduction to Argentina.
It could only get better – and it did with the “Uco Valley” wine trip the following day.
Our main reason for visiting Mendoza was for the vineyards – Mendoza province produces 70% of Argentina’s wine. As you might imagine, there are lots of tour companies offering wine trips, particularly to Maipu. But we chose to go further afield – to the Uco Valley, and to go with a small company that visited mainly family run vineyards producing organic wines.
It was a fabulous day. Our first two stops were at small producer wineries …..
… though our third stop, which included lunch….
…..was at one of the more commercial ones – as the smaller ones don’t serve meals.
So we saw lots of vines…
…. barrels…
… and bottles….
… tasted twelve different wines, and had a thoroughly enjoyable day…
… which finished with a wander around a couple of Mendoza’s plazas….
Still needing money and a phone card we ventured out early the following morning to drop off our luggage at the bus station and then proceeded to try to get both. We had pristine US$ with us as we had been advised, prior to leaving, that exchanging these was the best way of obtaining Argentinian peso, which they also call dollars. We queued for about an hour at a Western Union only to be told that that Western Union didn’t exchange money. They gave us directions to another one which was in a small exchange bureau called Bamensa. On the way we passed a Movistar outlet so thought we’d get the SIM using our bank card – but they only took cash!
We found Bamensa, where there was no queue, our US$ were changed, without hassle, at the “tourist” [informal] rate and we returned to buy the phone card.
As you possibly know, the Argentinian economy is in free fall and because of the tough restrictions the government placed on currency exchange, a “black market” has developed. Theoretically, the “blue dollar” system is illegal. Banks certainly only exchange using the formal Government rate so where an exchange bureau fits into whatever is meant by “official” financial organisation we really aren’t sure because we got double the Argentinian dollars we would have got from a bank and didn’t have to pay commission either. We weren’t complaining.
By the time we had finished all this too-ing and fro-ing we were in desperate need of coffee and now had the money to pay for it! But, by stopping for refreshment, we missed the opening times of the “Iglesia, Convento y Basillica San Francisco” so could only view it from the outside.
However, just around the corner the central market was in full swing….
…. had a couple of museum type exhibits along one edge…
and served fantastic quality steaks at the indoor “parrillada”.
Less good was the pub we went to before making our way to the bus station…
… called “Liverpool”, it attracted me, but the pisco sours were relatively expensive and not particularly nice.
The overnight bus to Córdoba was the most uncomfortable of the four we took. Unlike the Chilean coaches, this one had seats which only reclined like an airplane seat instead of the Semi-Cama [60% recline] and Cama [90% recline]. It also made many more stops which didn’t aid sleeping or even resting. So, we arrived quite tired. On top of this, having sat in front of a coughing couple on the last of our Atacama Desert trips, we developed colds. Although short lived, it did impact a bit on our stay – we probably didn’t see as much of Córdoba as we would have liked.
Despite that, we both thought that Córdoba was the nicer of the two cities. It was bustling with students – especially in the evenings…
…. had street entertainers….
…. and some very interesting buildings, many of which were influenced by the Jesuits and built during C16.
Plaza de la Intendencia has the “Palacio de Justica Tribunales” on its eastern side……
…. and on its southern end one of several monuments we saw to the “Malvinas” war heroes…..
Opposite the lovely decorative and grand sounding “Parroquia Sagrado Corazón de Jesus de los Capuchinos”…..
….. is the “Paseo del Buen Pastor”…..
To be fair to Mendoza, a devastating earthquake in 1968 more or less flattened the city so it doesn’t have that historical feel but, even so, there seemed to be much more to do in Córdoba even if we weren’t really feeling up to doing much.
A short walk up the road from our accommodation was the “Museo Superior de Bellas Artes Evita” which I wanted to visit to see the building – the Louis XVI style “Palacio Ferrerya” as much as the art…..
…. though there were some artworks which also took my eye.
I particularly liked these black and white photos which were among the “Out on the Street” exhibits.
We also went to the “Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Emilio Caraffa” – described as the city’s best contemporary art museum. I expected I was going to struggle as I find contemporary art “difficult” but entrance was included with the Bellas Artes tickets so we thought we would give it a go. I wasn’t wrong…
…. but I admit that when it comes to art, I am a pleb.
I much preferred what was displayed outside in the nearby park….
At least it had a purpose I could understand – one circle for every year of Independence.
Unfortunately, one of the things I had wanted to do from Córdoba didn’t happen – not because we weren’t up to it but because either the bus written about in the Lonely Planet doesn’t exist – or it hides itself well. I guess we could have taken a taxi but by the time we had finished looking for the bus it was too late in the day.
What I had hoped is that we would visit Alta Gracia, where – as a result of asthma – Che Guevara spent his youth/adolescence. Also there, is one of the best examples of a C17 Jesuit “estancia” which has resulted in it becoming a World Heritage site and the town itself sounded delightful.
Because we were generally feeling under the weather and quite tired by the evenings, we twice ate in our apartment but on our third [and last] night in Córdoba, we rallied and after a beer at this rather strangely named bar….
…. went to “El Papagayo”. Sorry Chris, you will be horrified to know that it was a 13 course tasting menu – the kind of stuff you find pointless…..
….. but it was fabulous. We certainly didn’t leave hungry and with a bottle of wine, the bill for the two of us was just £60 equivalent. An absolute bargain and a fabulous way to end our stay in Córdoba.
