As we are still unsure of our longer-term plans for this year, we bought our Tepai [Greek Cruising Tax] for just April and May but then had to wait for a decent weather window in April to leave Kalamata. This came on 12th April with a promise of a minimum of 3-5 good days ahead so off we went with the usual “shake down” sail which, as in previous years, took us 15 miles down to Koroni.
Given the more southerly nature of the wind we opted to anchor in the north harbour rather than the south beach. We prefer the beach but it can be very rolly in a southerly.
The harbour area is rocky in places and the first time we went there we snagged one. However, there is an entry on Navionics which suggests that anchoring in a specific place avoids these. So, we followed the instructions to the letter. Unfortunately, it would appear that these instructions don’t allow for a wind change because, lo and behold, the following morning when we started to leave, we had found another rock!
Towards the end of last year we bought walkie talkies so that we could communicate, without shouting, from cockpit to bow. We use these mainly when anchoring but they certainly came in very handy for extricating our chain from under the boulder as Mike was able to give me clear directions which I could follow immediately. It took about 15 minutes of forwards and backwards and clockwise and anti-clockwise trying to work out how the chain had caught and, just as Mike was about to give up, the chain cleared and up came the anchor. Phew!
As I wrote in the last blog post, one of our purchases over the winter was a new foresail and I promised photos. Well, here you are. Our second day out.
Our stop that night was Pylos from where we left early the following morning to sail north to Kyparissia. Even though it was only 30 miles we wanted the early start in case we couldn’t get into, or didn’t like the look of the place as it was our first time there. So, having passed the small island of Sfaktiria, which forms the outer barrier to the Gulf of Navarino, we thought we could see mist across the fertile plains north of Pylos. But No……..
In Greece, fires are not permitted between the first of May and the end of October so a lot of burning is done in April
It was a good passage and, going through the Protis channel between Proti island and Marathopouli on the mainland, I couldn’t resist taking a photograph of the taverna where John [brother-in-law] got absolutely drenched by a crashing wave when we stopped there for lunch whilst on a car trip from Pylos eighteen months previously.
I am glad to say that the sea state was very different as we passed through – though I guess that speaks for itself because if it hadn’t been we wouldn’t have been sailing through there!
On arrival at Kyparissia we found no problem at all with depth or space and, by 13.30 we were berthed alongside – in good time for a wander round to suss the place out.
We really liked it. It is a working town with a full range of shops and services.
It is approximately 20 minutes’ walk uphill to get to the town itself but it wasn’t too onerous and there are plenty of coffee shops in the main square for a pick me up.
The following day we decided to walk up to the castle…….
….. which was shut.
We had read about a water mill a couple of kilometers further on so, as we were too early for lunch in the old town we carried on walking. The mill itself wasn’t really that exciting – especially as we have visited similar ones previously. But the upstairs part [now a café] retains the old stove…..
….. the owner was very enthusiastic about us visiting and, the building does have quite an interesting history.
Why I failed to get a photo of the two authentic German WWII phones I don’t know. Probably because I was too busy reading the above history.
So, all in all the extra walk was worth doing and gave us a good view down to the coast and harbour.
But, the real find was the old town.
Clearly it is being renovated….
….. and it looks as if it is very popular for evening dining.
It maybe that in season the restaurants also open for lunch but only one was open that day.
However, this was also a great find and, as we were hoping to find somewhere for Easter Sunday, we booked a table.
Sadly, it wasn’t to be. Wind from the north or west is fine in the harbour, wind from the east is manageable but we had wind from the south east and this had us bouncing around against the harbour wall in rather an uncomfortable manner. Because we were against the wall it would have been a difficult manoeuvre to leave it and anchor either inside the harbour or just outside to the north so we stuck it out for 24 hours.
Once the SE abated, we had the option of anchoring – as I said above but, from looking at the longer term weather forecast if we stayed for the Easter Sunday we would have had to stay almost another week after it because the winds were going north.
So, we decided we would leave while we had westerlies and on 20th April we left Kyparissia behind, spent one night at anchor at Katakolon….
….. and then headed straight to Vathy on Ithaki. Initially we anchored in the SE corner from where it is quick access to town by dinghy. 22nd April was Easter Friday so in the evening we went ashore, found a new restaurant to eat at [Poseidon – very local and good], watched the “bier procession” ….
……and then retired to the boat for a glass of wine at which time we decided we would stay in Vathy for Easter Sunday.
Booking a table, however wasn’t that easy. We had hoped one of our two favourites would be open but they told us “Sorry, but No”. So, although “O Nikos” is a bit touristy and generally aimed at the charter market, we have been before and the food was fine so, as he was the only guy who seemed to be opening we booked a table.
Going ashore the following day was like going to a ghost town.
Three years previously we had been on Paros and my blog about that time describes a brilliant Easter party. But, Naoussa, Paros is renowned for Easter. It appears, however, that in the main the traditional Easter Sunday meal is eaten with family at home or in small village communities. So, it was not quite the same.
But, there were Greek families at the restaurant, the atmosphere was convivial, the lamb was good so all was fine…..then!
What we discovered later that day is that, at least in Vathy, the Easter Sunday party starts at around 8pm. Close to where we were anchored was a café bar. It started playing music quietly and we thought nothing of it. But it was still going at midnight, and louder now. Then even louder and continued until 4am!
In case Easter Monday evening was going to be a repeat of the previous night we decided to move anchorages. Also, the forecast northerlies were due and, having had a rough time a couple of years ago in that SE anchorage during a NW blow, we decided overall that a change could only be for the better. We decided to try the “Lazaretto” anchorage.
The island was originally a quarantine station where ships crew and passengers could often be “imprisoned for quite long periods of time. During WWI it became a small prisoner of war camp. The building were demolished by the 1953 earthquake following which the small church of St Saviour was built.
We have previously avoided it because it is reportedly deep. However, looking more closely at the chart we thought we could stay in relatively shallow water and still avoid the underwater cables which are across the shallowest point. It was great. We loved it here.
We spent 3 nights here, did some laundry in the excellent laundrette in town, visited a couple of café’s….
….. and went for a walk over the hill to the south and west of Vathy town.
Our destination was a “kantina” where we hoped we would get a lunchtime beer and snack. We half thought that, being early season, it might not be open but decided the walk would be good anyway so we would give it a go. We were right – or one half of us was!
Again though, great views…..
…. and, as often happens on walks, we found flowers.
Now maybe my sister, who is very much into plants and flowers, knows what a spathe is. I didn’t. If you don’t know either then I can tell you that its a large sheathing bract enclosing the flower cluster.
On 28th April it was time to leave Vathy and we motored 8nm north to one of our favourite bays which I wrote about two years ago.
This time we didn’t even expect the kantina to be open and, as planned, spent a quiet afternoon and evening as the only boat in this lovely anchorage.
We had intended to go next to the port of Sivota on the bottom of Lefkas which previously we have only visited by car because it is always so busy with charter boats. Being early season we figured there should be room. However, the taverna pontoon we wanted didn’t seem to want us. The first time Mike phoned we were told the pontoons were being put in that day so phone tomorrow. He did, to be told they didn’t have space for us??? There was hardly anyone else around. Either the pontoons still weren’t in or, maybe being just a liveaboard boat with two people on it to eat in his restaurant rather that an 8/10 person charter put him off? We will never know.
Instead we went to Frikes and got a lovely spot along the wall where we know it is nice and secure.
We stayed four nights at Frikes and went for a couple of walks. The first was a late afternoon walk up to the lovely village of Stavros which we have done before and the second round the coast to Kioni.
It was really nice to get a different view of the village….
…. as well as views along the way.
So, it was then time to leave Ithaki which also seems to be a fitting place to finish this post.
Until next time…..